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Like much of Victoria, residential development began with the sale of raw land from the fur trade reserve in the 1850s, mainly to employees of the Hudson’s Bay Co (HBC). The 103-acre Rock Bay Estate of Sarah and Roderick Finlayson, former chief trader of Fort Victoria, stretched eastward from the water of Rock Bay to the Fernwood area.
Their rambling 2-storey manor, surrounded by ornamental gardens, orchards and open fields, stood isolated west of Douglas Street, north of Queens Avenue, until demolition c.1907. Bay Street separated Finlayson’s property from Hillside Farm, the huge estate owned by Sarah’s parents, retired HBC chief factor John and Josette Work (see Hillside-Quadra history). Craigie Lea Farm, covering 400 acres along the waterway beyond Cecelia Ravine, belonged to HBC shipwright-turned-publican James and Mary Yates. Harriet Street was named after their second daughter. The Garbally Estate of Anne and Richard Woods, provincial Supreme Court registrar, was established in 1862 on 110 acres bordering Selkirk Water. Richard died at 63 in 1876; Anne managed the estate until her death at 70 in 1883.
Early access to these properties was by boat along the waterway or a rough ride over crude forest trails. Douglas Street was pushed northward to meet Burnside Road and the old road to Saanich by 1859. Two years later the first bridges were erected over the Arm at Point Ellice and Rock Bay – the latter supported at midstream by a rocky islet for which the small bay was possibly named.
Creeks that flowed into the waterway were also spanned, notably along Douglas and Government Streets near Queens where a meandering stream from Fernwood spilled into Rock Bay as Finlayson Falls. A small water-powered mill was built there in the 1860s. Two bridges along Gorge Road spanned creeks draining the area of Topaz and Speed Streets. The present span over Cecelia Creek ravine on Gorge Road was constructed in 1912. Several more bridges crossed upstream at Burnside, Beta and Delta Roads. Tidal water from Rock Bay almost reached John Street, between Bridge and Ludgate, until 1890 when a combination of landfill and bridgework connected Bay Street with the approach to Point Ellice Bridge. A drive-through concrete tunnel still passes under the roadway there.
Expansion of the area’s roadways – however rustic – allowed subdivision of the founding estates to begin as early as 1861. The waterside properties near Point Ellice attracted some of the first newcomers, notably Charles Wallace who married Catherine Work from Hillside Farm in 1861 (Point Ellice House, 2616 Pleasant Street), then sold the property to colonial gold commissioner Peter and Caroline O’Reilly in 1868.
Supreme court judge Montague and Joanna Tyrwhitt-Drake and dry
goods merchant, city mayor and BC premier John and Elisabeth Turner
also lived on that aptly-named Pleasant Street. Mill owner James and
Selina Mann built a comfortable house nearby in the 1880s, as did sealing
captain William and Helen Grant.
Local children attended Rock Bay School, built at 2518 Turner Avenue
in 1890. It served as a Chinese Public School in the 1920s. Queen’s
Academy, a private school for girls specializing in bookkeeping instruction,
was opened at 80 Henry Street in 1904 by Stephen Pope (1127
Catherine Street, Victoria West, 648 Niagara Street,
James Bay), who moved the school to 2715 Rock Bay Avenue and later to
Rockland. The building is now a 2-storey private residence and office.
Children in the Gorge area went to Burnside School (3130 Jutland
Road) as of 1913. North Ward Public School was built in 1895
on Douglas Street where the Times Colonist building now stands. A bell
tower rising more than four storeys lent the landmark school a superior
air not out of place in the fashionable neighbourhood.
The desirability of the neighbourhood was anchored in the 1870s when
three ‘villas’ were built on Douglas south of Hillside for the families
of successful realtor and insurance agent Henry Heisterman (1521
Shasta Place, Rockland), hardware merchant Thomas Tye, and
brewer Louis Erb. New residents in the 1890s included postmaster Noah
Shakespeare, plumber Andrew Sheret, mill owner Joseph Sayward, Premier
Theodore Davie and grocer Dixi Ross – who stabled his race horses on
present-day Ross Lane. Westbourne Place was named after the elegant
home of federal drydock master Captain John Devereux. A brick house
on Douglas Street next to North Ward School housed the families of prominent
builders William and Walter Luney. Their construction yard occupied
the SE corner of Bay and Blanshard Streets in North Park until the 1970s.
The large Arthur Porter house, graced with a 3-storey wooden tower,
once stood on the site of today’s Garbally transit yard.
By the time the early estates were being subdivided for residential
development, industry was firmly entrenched along the waterfronts of
the Upper Harbour. Victoria Gas Co (502 & 512 Pembroke Street)
and the giant Albion Iron Works (2101 Government Street),
manufacturing everything from stoves to boxcars, were both established
in the Store/Pembroke Street area in 1862.
Within two decades, smokestacks,
beehive burners and water towers lined the industrial shoreline north
of downtown. Freshly-milled lumber for overseas markets was stacked
on company wharves, ready to be loaded onto five-masted freighters.
Steam-powered tugs pulled barges of coal and pig iron from Britain to
feed the growing number of factories. Upper Store Street contained the
Rock Bay Sawmill and Victoria Planing Mill that supplied the ornamental
throne and other finishing woodwork for the new legislative buildings.
Victoria Roller Flour & Rice Mill (1900 Store Street)
was established next door c.1890, followed soon after by BC Electric
Railway Co’s powerhouse and car sheds (502-08 Discovery Street).
The big parking lot opposite was the terminus and marshalling yard for
the E&N Railway, with tracks from the Johnson Street Bridge. Shawnigan
Lake Lumber Co was located on Government Street at Discovery, kitty-corner
to the 6-storey Victoria Phoenix Brewery that produced beer for almost
100 years. Gone too are the Queen City Sawmill, Capital Planing Mill
and Crowe-Gonnason Sash and Door Factory, all founded in the late 1800s
along the Government Street waterfront north of Pembroke. Wagon works,
blacksmith shops, stables, warehouses, plus wood and coal yards also
existed nearby. Surviving structures include the Smith Brothers foundry
at 632 Pembroke Street and a former Chinese laundry at 740 Princess
Street, both dating back to 1913.
Landfill between Bridge and Garbally Streets facilitated expansion of the city works yard established around 1917. The site still contains brick structures originally built as a wagon shed, blacksmith shop and stables. The enduring Economy Steam Laundry and Commercial Towel Co, on John Street, dates back to 1915. A former box factory (Dalziel Box Co, 70 Gorge Road East and 1128 Topaz Avenue, Hillside-Quadra), fertilizer plant, stone monumental works and soda factory have also contributed to changing the Rock Bay neighbourhood from residential to light industrial. Some small Streets, such as Mill Street and Wood Street, were erased from the map by development. Commerce, quickly spreading from downtown, soon pushed private dwellings out of the Douglas-Blanshard corridor as well. The Field Street Apartments and the Scott Building at Hillside Avenue (originally with housing on the upper two levels) were on site by 1914. The Bay Street Armoury (713 Bay Street), Canadian Bank of Commerce (2420 Douglas Street) and Leland Building – home in the 1950s to the period-evoking Flying Saucer Coffee Shop – followed one year later. 1928 saw completion of the art deco BC Electric Substation, 637 Bay Street at Government Street. All are still extant.
Douglas Street north of the junction was home after WWII to a wooden cycledrome, covered roller skating arena and stables for sightseeing horses, hence the Tally Ho Motor Inn. Construction of Mayfair Shopping Centre in 1963 put an end to a century of brick making on the Douglas Street site. Five companies operated there in the 1890s (Baker Brick Company – 714 Discovery Street, Burnside, and 968 Balmoral Street, North Park), churning out millions of bricks and tiles annually. The biggest change of all was the late 1960s Blanshard redevelopment scheme that led to demolition of North Ward School and more than 100 Edwardian houses for a major road realignment.
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